Not all concealers are created equal! They come in a variety of options for coverage, consistency, finish and texture and it's important to know their differences in order to choose the right concealer for the job. I was inspired after reading Into the Gloss's best concealer article to write my own post discussing my favorite concealer tips and tricks. I knew I had to really dive into the subject, because choosing the right concealer out of the hundreds of available options can be pretty intimidating!
Choosing the Correct Formula
Formula is everything, it is what determines the texture and opacity and how the product will lay on the skin. Under eye concealers should be silky, emollient and moisturizing. The formula shouldn't crease or set into fine lines and it needs to be able to move with your natural facial expressions. Concealer used to cover acne or areas of redness and discoloration on the face should be denser, a bit drier and more opaque. They should almost feel like they are drying or 'setting' on their own after a few minutes. Here are my Top 5 favorite formulas for personal and client use:
I go more in-depth about each of them further on in this article, so keep reading!
Concealer Prep
'Prepping' your under eyes before concealer may seem like too much work, but trust me, it's simple and it makes a huge difference in the texture and longevity of your products! For many people it may be common sense to always start off with an eye cream to smooth out fine lines and plump up signs of dehydration, but I'm about to share a secret about a special star product that works overtime so that your concealer doesn't have to do all the heavy lifting. So please let me introduce...
Color Correcting
Color correcting is the quickly becoming the new buzzword in beauty. People will soon be obsessing over color correction to the same extent as the brow and contouring crazes that have taken over the internet in the past few years. In truth, color correction is nothing new, it has been something that makeup artists have been doing forever in subtle ways. Color correction can be immensely handy as long as you don't over do it. Salmon/peach tones will correct the under-eye darkness of blues and purples, green will correct redness and a pale lavender with brighten sallow complexions. My favorite green and lavender toned correctors are by Becca, while Eve Pearl, Bobbi Brown and Make Up For Ever make great peachy correctors.
Tools
The way that you apply your concealer also has a big impact on its final coverage and texture. My favorite tool for under eye concealing is a damp sponge, specifically the Beauty Blender or the Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge. A dampened sponge will add hydration, and the patting/pressing motion will smooth the concealer down into a delicate and imperceptible layer.
A small, stiff, slightly tapered brush is crucial for concealing acne or discoloration with precision. This type of brush will lay down the product only where you need it, preventing excess concealer build up which leads to the dreaded 'cake face'. Because this concealing technique still allows the clear areas of your skin to peek through, you will end up looking more natural and polished. Celebrity makeup artist Lisa Eldridge has a great video demonstrating this technique here.
A flat shading brush can help lay down product in specific areas. I'll usually use a brush like this to place concealer in hard to reach areas, like the sides of the nose or the innermost corner of the eyes before I'd blend it out with a sponge.
Fingers! Your fingers are the free tool that you carry with you everywhere! As long as your hands are properly sanitized there is nothing wrong with using your fingers to apply makeup. It actually helps heat up the formulas, allowing them to quickly blend into the skin for a very fresh and natural appearance. When I use my fingers for concealer I like to use a tapping motion rather than a dragging or gliding motion for the best finish. One of my favorite concealers for a 'hand application' is by Maskcara Beauty. It's an easy to use highlighting concealer, so it's extremely brightening and perfect for days when you don't have much time but still want to look pulled together. Another plus is that it's only $10.50 and comes in an adorable little tin that's perfect to pop into your handbag. Maskcara Beauty also has other great products to go along with this one so check out their whole line; the owner Cara also has an awesome blog that you can read here.
Concealer Application
The number one rule for application is 'less is usually more'! Don't get too heavy with it, it's always easier to build up the product then take it away. Apply concealer only in the spots where you actually need it, don't slather it on all over or you can risk looking mask-like.
Setting Concealer
Setting your concealer with powder is super important if you want it to last throughout the day. Finding a good face powder to set spot concealing with isn't too tricky, but under-eye setting powders can be finicky. You need something that is light weight, won't crease and will brighten underneath the eyes. My personal favorites are the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders. They have been staples in my kit since they came out, and they play a huge role in keeping my under eye concealer looking perfect. My favorite shades for this purpose are 'Ethereal' and 'Diffused', and I also love their Strobing Powder in 'Incandescent' for a more glowy look. This shade also comes in their 3 color palette (one of my favorite products EVER). I also enjoy the Laura Mercier translucent and secret brightening powder and the Ben Nye powders are a good cost-effective option. Again, I like to use a slightly damp sponge to apply my setting powder; usually the same one that I have just applied my foundation and concealer with. I do not employ, nor would I recommend the 'baking' method where you pack on a ton of powder, I simply press a little bit of it into the natural crease under my eye and the slight dampness of the sponge really helps melt the powder into my skin.
* Maybelline Fit Me: Smooth & creamy, great for undereyes and light spot concealing.
* Maybelline Coverstick: Great for quick touch-ups, this thicker consistency covers well and resists creasing.
Full Coverage
* Kryolan Dermacolor: Intense coverage and insanely long wear-time makes this concealer a must have! Just use a little bit at a time for flawless skin.
* Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer: This little pot can be used as foundation or concealer and can be mixed with moisturizers and primers to create a custom level of coverage. It is silky smooth and has a perfected dreamy finish on the skin.
* Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage: Great for spot concealing, this product has great coverage and a stiff consistency that wears well all day.
Undereye
* Benefit Stay Don't Stray: An eyeshadow primer and concealer in one, this super long-wearing and lightweight formula color corrects and is the perfect base for any other concealer.
* Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer: Super smooth and velvety finish with a great color range and minimal creasing.
* Mac Pro Longwear: Slightly sticky as it dries, this is water resistant and my personal go-to concealer. It comes in a great shade range and can be easily sheered down or built up for customized coverage.
* Givenchy Mister Light Correcting Pen: Super smooth and hydrating, this is the most 'natural looking' concealer and is great for mature skin. I have a review on it here.
Brightening
* Maskcara Beauty 3D Foundation: Meant to be used for highlighting and sculpting the face, they really do brighten!
Spot Concealing
* Kryolan Dermacolor: Intense coverage and insanely long wear-time makes this concealer a must have! Just use a little bit at a time for flawless skin.
* Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage: Great for spot concealing, this product has great coverage and a stiff consistency that wears well all day.
Multipurpose
* Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer: Super smooth and velvety finish with a great color range and minimal creasing.
* Mac Pro-Longwear: Slightly sticky as it dries, this is water resistant and my personal go-to concealer. It comes in a great shade range and can be easily sheered down or built up for customized coverage.
* Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer: This little pot can be used as foundation or concealer and can be mixed with moisturizers and primers to create a custom level of coverage. It is silky smooth and has a perfected dreamy finish on the skin.
What are you must-have concealers?
'Prepping' your under eyes before concealer may seem like too much work, but trust me, it's simple and it makes a huge difference in the texture and longevity of your products! For many people it may be common sense to always start off with an eye cream to smooth out fine lines and plump up signs of dehydration, but I'm about to share a secret about a special star product that works overtime so that your concealer doesn't have to do all the heavy lifting. So please let me introduce...
Benefit Stay Don't Stray 360 Degree Eye Primer
Eyeshadow primer did you say? Besides being a perfect primer for the eyes, this product is amazing to use as concealer prep, hence '360 degrees'. It is one of my all-time favorite products, it helps neutralize dark circles, prevent under eye creasing, and it acts like a concealer magnet, locking everything in place and making sure your under eyes stay fresh and bright all day long. I apply it to the entire orbital area after foundation and before any main concealer, and then I tap it in with a Beauty Blender. It's also pigmented enough to use on its own as a lightweight concealer, so I urge any of you who are even a little bit curious to go out and try this! |
| applying Benefit's Stay Don't Stray |
Color correcting is the quickly becoming the new buzzword in beauty. People will soon be obsessing over color correction to the same extent as the brow and contouring crazes that have taken over the internet in the past few years. In truth, color correction is nothing new, it has been something that makeup artists have been doing forever in subtle ways. Color correction can be immensely handy as long as you don't over do it. Salmon/peach tones will correct the under-eye darkness of blues and purples, green will correct redness and a pale lavender with brighten sallow complexions. My favorite green and lavender toned correctors are by Becca, while Eve Pearl, Bobbi Brown and Make Up For Ever make great peachy correctors.
The way that you apply your concealer also has a big impact on its final coverage and texture. My favorite tool for under eye concealing is a damp sponge, specifically the Beauty Blender or the Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge. A dampened sponge will add hydration, and the patting/pressing motion will smooth the concealer down into a delicate and imperceptible layer.
A small, stiff, slightly tapered brush is crucial for concealing acne or discoloration with precision. This type of brush will lay down the product only where you need it, preventing excess concealer build up which leads to the dreaded 'cake face'. Because this concealing technique still allows the clear areas of your skin to peek through, you will end up looking more natural and polished. Celebrity makeup artist Lisa Eldridge has a great video demonstrating this technique here.
A flat shading brush can help lay down product in specific areas. I'll usually use a brush like this to place concealer in hard to reach areas, like the sides of the nose or the innermost corner of the eyes before I'd blend it out with a sponge.
Fingers! Your fingers are the free tool that you carry with you everywhere! As long as your hands are properly sanitized there is nothing wrong with using your fingers to apply makeup. It actually helps heat up the formulas, allowing them to quickly blend into the skin for a very fresh and natural appearance. When I use my fingers for concealer I like to use a tapping motion rather than a dragging or gliding motion for the best finish. One of my favorite concealers for a 'hand application' is by Maskcara Beauty. It's an easy to use highlighting concealer, so it's extremely brightening and perfect for days when you don't have much time but still want to look pulled together. Another plus is that it's only $10.50 and comes in an adorable little tin that's perfect to pop into your handbag. Maskcara Beauty also has other great products to go along with this one so check out their whole line; the owner Cara also has an awesome blog that you can read here.
Concealer Application
The number one rule for application is 'less is usually more'! Don't get too heavy with it, it's always easier to build up the product then take it away. Apply concealer only in the spots where you actually need it, don't slather it on all over or you can risk looking mask-like.
 |
| without concealer / with concealer |
Setting your concealer with powder is super important if you want it to last throughout the day. Finding a good face powder to set spot concealing with isn't too tricky, but under-eye setting powders can be finicky. You need something that is light weight, won't crease and will brighten underneath the eyes. My personal favorites are the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders. They have been staples in my kit since they came out, and they play a huge role in keeping my under eye concealer looking perfect. My favorite shades for this purpose are 'Ethereal' and 'Diffused', and I also love their Strobing Powder in 'Incandescent' for a more glowy look. This shade also comes in their 3 color palette (one of my favorite products EVER). I also enjoy the Laura Mercier translucent and secret brightening powder and the Ben Nye powders are a good cost-effective option. Again, I like to use a slightly damp sponge to apply my setting powder; usually the same one that I have just applied my foundation and concealer with. I do not employ, nor would I recommend the 'baking' method where you pack on a ton of powder, I simply press a little bit of it into the natural crease under my eye and the slight dampness of the sponge really helps melt the powder into my skin.
Fail-Proof Concealers
Drugstore * Maybelline Fit Me: Smooth & creamy, great for undereyes and light spot concealing.
* Maybelline Coverstick: Great for quick touch-ups, this thicker consistency covers well and resists creasing.
Full Coverage
* Kryolan Dermacolor: Intense coverage and insanely long wear-time makes this concealer a must have! Just use a little bit at a time for flawless skin.
* Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer: This little pot can be used as foundation or concealer and can be mixed with moisturizers and primers to create a custom level of coverage. It is silky smooth and has a perfected dreamy finish on the skin.
* Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage: Great for spot concealing, this product has great coverage and a stiff consistency that wears well all day.
Undereye
* Benefit Stay Don't Stray: An eyeshadow primer and concealer in one, this super long-wearing and lightweight formula color corrects and is the perfect base for any other concealer.
* Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer: Super smooth and velvety finish with a great color range and minimal creasing.
* Mac Pro Longwear: Slightly sticky as it dries, this is water resistant and my personal go-to concealer. It comes in a great shade range and can be easily sheered down or built up for customized coverage.
* Givenchy Mister Light Correcting Pen: Super smooth and hydrating, this is the most 'natural looking' concealer and is great for mature skin. I have a review on it here.
Brightening
* Maskcara Beauty 3D Foundation: Meant to be used for highlighting and sculpting the face, they really do brighten!
Spot Concealing
* Kryolan Dermacolor: Intense coverage and insanely long wear-time makes this concealer a must have! Just use a little bit at a time for flawless skin.
* Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage: Great for spot concealing, this product has great coverage and a stiff consistency that wears well all day.
Multipurpose
* Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer: Super smooth and velvety finish with a great color range and minimal creasing.
* Mac Pro-Longwear: Slightly sticky as it dries, this is water resistant and my personal go-to concealer. It comes in a great shade range and can be easily sheered down or built up for customized coverage.
* Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer: This little pot can be used as foundation or concealer and can be mixed with moisturizers and primers to create a custom level of coverage. It is silky smooth and has a perfected dreamy finish on the skin.
What are you must-have concealers?
