Thursday, July 28, 2016

The Best Longwear & Dewy Blush

Today I wanted to share my favorite way to get long-wearing blush! This technique allows you to achieve a dewy and skin-like finish for the perfect, natural, flushed look. This is the only way that I wear blush now, and it lasts me up to 10 hours! This technique is suitable for dry, normal and slightly combination skin; (if you get very oily on your cheeks I would recommend setting it with a powder blush). Make sure to watch the video tutorial at the end!
I use the Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte Shine lipsticks for this technique, as I find that they work the best. They were already my absolute favorite lipsticks, and were pretty much the only formula that I used on myself (besides the amazing Dior LipGlow). At $37 for a tube, they are a little easier to swallow when used as a lipstick and a blush, plus they'll last you forever! They are by far the best and longest lasting 'cream blush' that I've ever tried and don't break out my sensitive skin like many other cream blushes do. 
Step 1: Run a few strokes of the lipstick onto the back of your hand. You want this to serve as your palette to warm up the product.
Step 2: Use fluffy brush and work the lipstick into the bristles by running over the stroke marks on the back of your hand. You want to create a stain inside the bristles, not just have the lipstick sitting on top. The pink brush in this Real Techniques trio is my favorite for applying cream blush and you get 3 brushes for $18!
Step 3: Use circular motions to lightly stamp and buff the color onto your cheeks. Build it up slowly because it will stain your cheeks wherever you place it. Now you have fresh, long lasting blush!

 Watch the tutorial!

Here are a few drugstore alternatives, I haven't tested the 'blush wear time' on these, but they have a similar texture and formula!
Maybelline Baby Lips
Maybelline Color Whisper
L'Oreal Color Caresse
Burt's Bees Tinted Lip Balm
Revlon Color Burst Lip Butter 

Would you ever wear lipstick as blush? Comment with your favorites!

Friday, June 10, 2016

Heat-Free & Effortless Summer Hair

Today I partnered with the talented Deanna Mackenzie of Asanda Spa in Manhattan to bring you this super cute and easy-to-achieve hair tutorial. 

Deanna is a Senior Stylist at Asanda and has been in the hair industry for eleven years! She specializes in coloring, styling and cutting, and if you're looking for a fresh & modern short style, there is no one else you should turn to! Deanna says: "Being greatly influenced by both my mom and my sister, I had a love for hair at an early age. Lucky for me, I was able to pursue it as a career that I absolutely love. Doing hair for me is one of the many outlets that I'm able to express creativity."

Read on for the instructions, and follow Deanna on instagram: @colorcreatedesign

1. Create an ear to ear headband parting & clip away back center hair.

2. Grab hair from front sides, pull back and tie into a knot.

3. Let clipped hair down

4. Grab hair from sides and tie another knot on top of the hair just let down.

5. Tuck and secure ends underneath with a Bobby pin or hair pin.

6. Finish with Aveda Air Control for light to moderate hold or Aveda Control Force for a strong hold and humidity defense. 

What are your favorite effortless summer hairstyles?


Monday, May 16, 2016

Editorial Tennis Shoot

 Last month I did the makeup for this editorial tennis shoot. I drew inspiration from our location to create the look, using a simple minty green liner along the top lash line contrasted against a bright orange lip.
I wanted the makeup to have a fresh, summer vibe while still remaining minimal and sporty. Orange and green is a super fun/whimsical color combination and it looks great on golden skin tones; the contrasting shades really made Krystal's features pop!

Key Products
Make Up For Ever Face & Body foundation
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz
Make Up For Ever Brow Seal


Production Team
Photographer: Heidi Bohnenkamp  (@heidibphoto)

Monday, May 9, 2016

Professional Makeup Artist Interview - Emily Hawtin

Emily Hawtin of EmMe Makeup Artistry is an on-site bridal and beauty makeup artist based out of Chattanooga Tennessee. I love the way Emily uses bright shades for a 'pop of color' on the cheeks and lips. That flushed, romantic style happens to be one of my personal favorite looks to create on bridal clients as well.

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Emily and I connected over instagram and I could tell that she possessed a super sweet soul and would be the perfect kind of artist a bride would want for her wedding day. So all you Tennessee ladies, check her out!

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Q: How long have you been a working professional and how did you get started in your career?
A: I’ve been a working professional makeup artist for over six years and I started my company (EmMe Makeup Artistry) three years ago. I started studying makeup in college where I got a B.A. in two subjects because, truth be told, I couldn’t pick just one. However, my favorite major was Theatre with a concentration in makeup artistry and costume design. After graduating, I became a Teaching Artist for schools in the TN and GA area, teaching stage makeup techniques while also working as an Executive Administrative Assistant (which is really just a made up title for secretary). While sitting at my desk one day, cranking out excel sheets, I realized I hated this job and I didn’t want 20 years to go by and still find myself sitting in a cubicle. So, with not a lot of money and a huge nudge from my husband, I started EmMe Makeup Artistry while studying additional makeup techniques at AMUA and MAC Pro and reading through a giant stack of business textbooks every night. Three years later, I’ve never been more grateful for that nudge.

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Q: When did you know that you wanted to be a makeup artist?
A: My dad, a beautiful artist, inspired me to be artistic in my career pursuits. I’ve always been drawn to makeup, even as a little girl. So, naturally, I fell in love with makeup artistry as a career path. I remember being mesmerized as I watched my mother apply her makeup each morning; playing with her empty compacts when she got through with each product. When I was 12 she took me to MAC and got me my very first makeup brush (which I still carry in my brush belt today). It was then that I realized being a makeup artist was an actual job you could have. Every birthday and holiday, I would always ask for makeup (something that still holds true today).

Q: What do you love most about makeup and about your job?
A: I love that makeup is always changing and evolving. Each season has different trends and each brand is coming out with innovative ways to apply and wear makeup. Being a makeup artist means you always have something to learn whether from fellow artists or clients. I love that each job is different and that I never feel stagnant; I’m always growing and moving. It’s one of the few jobs that I think pushes you to constantly keep learning and developing.

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Q: What is your signature makeup style and what trends/looks have you been loving?
A: My signature makeup style is to enhance, not hide. I believe that makeup should be used to highlight and accentuate each person’s natural beauty, not diminish it. We are each individually made and wonderfully beautiful; so let's celebrate that! My favorite trends of the moment are bright, satin/matte lips, dewy/highlighted skin and a full, natural brow.

Q: What are some of your go to, must have, all time favorite kit products?

Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream
Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer
BECCA Backlight Priming Filter
Stila Convertible Cheek & Lip Color (all colors)
Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer
MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Soft & Gentle
MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack and Dip Down
MAC Lipsticks

professional makeup artist kit

Q: What products have you recently discovered and can’t live without?

Colour Pop Ultra Satin lips (all the bright colors)
Too Faced Natural Matte Palette
Tartelette In Bloom Palette
Clinique Cheek Pops
Laura Mercier Matte Radiance Baked Powder Highlighter

pro makeup kit

Q: Where do you draw your inspiration from?
A: I find inspiration in everything: other artists, film, books, the seasons... Most recently I’ve fallen down the rabbit hole of Netflix binging and I’ve been watching a show called Phryne Fisher that’s set in the 1920’s so I’ve been obsessing over twenties makeup and finding inspiration there.

Q: Who are some people that have inspired or influenced you throughout your career?
The people that have inspired me along the way and made the biggest influence on the way I view my art and my business is other makeup artists. To name just a few: Harriet Hadfield, Sanni Sorma and Lisa Eldridge (of course).

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Q: What is your most important piece of beauty advice and/or makeup tip for women?
: Spend time and money on your skincare and base products (i.e. foundation, concealer) and everything else can be lower priced (i.e. lipstick, mascara). I realize not everyone wants or can buy the $50 tube of lipstick so spending time and money on your base products will make all the difference in how your makeup looks and feels.

Q: What is your most important piece of advice for aspiring professionals?
Practice, practice, practice! And, say, “Yes,” your first year to every opportunity that comes your way - no matter how small. You never know what that opportunity could gift you with. Always be open minded; you are never too old to learn.

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Q: What is one thing you wish you had known starting out?
I wish I had gotten a business degree in some capacity because starting a business with no prior knowledge made everything a mountain of learning that I had to scale.

Q: If you weren’t a makeup artist what would you be doing instead?
I think I would have been an elementary school teacher. It’s the only other job that I feel I could have fallen into and still been happy. It holds the same draw for me that makeup artistry does: constantly learning and growing.

nashville tennessee wedding


Tuesday, May 3, 2016

NO KA'OI Photo Shoot

I recently did the makeup for a shoot with NO KA'OI, a fabulous action-couture brand specializing in high performance workout clothes for women. 

I love spicing up this blog with images of my fashion work, and I think it's a ton of fun to find out what products other makeup artists love on set, so I put together a little list of what the key products that I used to create these looks. All info and credits are listed the bottom of the post!

I drew inspiration for the makeup from the graphic lines and colors of the garments to create a fashion conscious eye-look while letting the skin remain fresh and sporty. 

To change from the first to the second look, I extended the liner into a bold ombre wing and punched up the lower lash line with a contrasting color.

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colorful makeup

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Key Products

Production Credits
Photographer: Heidi Bohnenkamp  (@heidibphoto)
Brunette Model: Bronwyn Jolley  (@bronjol)
Blonde Model: Khrystyana Kaz (@khrystyana)

Monday, April 18, 2016

Sexy Messy Eyes

I am a huge fan of slightly disheveled looks. I love when makeup and hair looks lived-in and worn, it seems more realistic and there's something sexy about being 'perfectly imperfect'. I wanted to do a twist on the smokey eye, so I made the lower lash line really smudgey and dark. I also used a mix of formulas on the lid to create an interesting finish and texture. You can do this with any color, but I chose this dusty purple to complement Liz's eyes. Hair by Greta Wagner.

Smokey Eye Steps
1. With a rounded brush (I like the domed shadow brush from this set) smudge the cream shadow over the eyelid and along the lower lash line. Feather the edges as you blend and bring the product fairly high into the eye socket.
2. Take a black kohl liner and line the inner rim of the eyes and smudge it into the cream pigment in the lower lash line. You can also pick some of the black kohl on the same brush and blend it into the inner and outer corners of the eyelid to add dimension.
3. Dab a light purple glitter to the center of the lid to add texture and a 'wetness' to the look.
4. Add multiple coats of thick, black mascara to the top and bottom lashes, a little bit of clumpiness towards the root will actually add to this look.

Becca Backlight Priming Filter
Becca Aqua Luminous Foundation in 'Fair'
Jouer Cream Highlights in 'Camellia' & 'Champagne'
Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector (liquid) in 'Pearl'
Illamasqua Cream Eyeshadow in 'Command'
Make Up For Ever Diamond Powder in 'Baby Mauve #14'
Guerlain Khol Me Kajal Liner
Bobbi Brown Extreme Party Mascara
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Gel in 'Caramel'
Fresh Sugar Lip Balm in 'Rose'
Not Your Mother's Sea Salt Spray

Would you try this 'grungy' version of a smokey eye?


Monday, April 11, 2016

The Ultimate Concealer Handbook

Not all concealers are created equal! They come in a variety of options for coverage, consistency, finish and texture and it's important to know their differences in order to choose the right concealer for the job. I was inspired after reading Into the Gloss's best concealer article to write my own post discussing my favorite concealer tips and tricks. I knew I had to really dive into the subject, because choosing the right concealer out of the hundreds of available options can be pretty intimidating!

Choosing the Correct Formula
Formula is everything, it is what determines the texture and opacity and how the product will lay on the skin. Under eye concealers should be silky, emollient and moisturizing. The formula shouldn't crease or set into fine lines and it needs to be able to move with your natural facial expressions. Concealer used to cover acne or areas of redness and discoloration on the face should be denser, a bit drier and more opaque. They should almost feel like they are drying or 'setting' on their own after a few minutes. Here are my Top 5  favorite formulas for personal and client use:  

I go more in-depth about each of them further on in this article, so keep reading!

Concealer Prep
'Prepping' your under eyes before concealer may seem like too much work, but trust me, it's simple and it makes a huge difference in the texture and longevity of your products! For many people it may be common sense to always start off with an eye cream to smooth out fine lines and plump up signs of dehydration, but I'm about to share a secret about a special star product that works overtime so that your concealer doesn't have to do all the heavy lifting. So please let me introduce...
Benefit Stay Don't Stray 360 Degree Eye Primer 
Eyeshadow primer did you say? Besides being a perfect primer for the eyes, this product is amazing to use as concealer prep, hence '360 degrees'. It is one of my all-time favorite products, it helps neutralize dark circles, prevent under eye creasing, and it acts like a concealer magnet, locking everything in place and making sure your under eyes stay fresh and bright all day long. I apply it to the entire orbital area after foundation and before any main concealer, and then I tap it in with a Beauty Blender. It's also pigmented enough to use on its own as a lightweight concealer, so I urge any of you who are even a little bit curious to go out and try this!

Benefit Stay Don't Stray
applying Benefit's Stay Don't Stray
Color Correcting
Color correcting is the quickly becoming the new buzzword in beauty. People will soon be obsessing over color correction to the same extent as the brow and contouring crazes that have taken over the internet in the past few years. In truth, color correction is nothing new, it has been something that makeup artists have been doing forever in subtle ways. Color correction can be immensely handy as long as you don't over do it. Salmon/peach tones will correct the under-eye darkness of blues and purples, green will correct redness and a pale lavender with brighten sallow complexions. My favorite green and lavender toned correctors are by Becca, while Eve Pearl, Bobbi Brown and Make Up For Ever make great peachy correctors.

The way that you apply your concealer also has a big impact on its final coverage and texture. My favorite tool for under eye concealing is a damp sponge, specifically the Beauty Blender or the Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge. A dampened sponge will add hydration, and the patting/pressing motion will smooth the concealer down into a delicate and imperceptible layer.

A small, stiff, slightly tapered brush is crucial for concealing acne or discoloration with precision. This type of brush will lay down the product only where you need it, preventing excess concealer build up which leads to the dreaded 'cake face'. Because this concealing technique still allows the clear areas of your skin to peek through, you will end up looking more natural and polished. Celebrity makeup artist Lisa Eldridge has a great video demonstrating this technique here.

A flat shading brush can help lay down product in specific areas. I'll usually use a brush like this to place concealer in hard to reach areas, like the sides of the nose or the innermost corner of the eyes before I'd blend it out with a sponge.

Fingers! Your fingers are the free tool that you carry with you everywhere! As long as your hands are properly sanitized there is nothing wrong with using your fingers to apply makeup. It actually helps heat up the formulas, allowing them to quickly blend into the skin for a very fresh and natural appearance. When I use my fingers for concealer I like to use a tapping motion rather than a dragging or gliding motion for the best finish. One of my favorite concealers for a 'hand application' is by Maskcara Beauty. It's an easy to use highlighting concealer, so it's extremely brightening and perfect for days when you don't have much time but still want to look pulled together. Another plus is that it's only $10.50 and comes in an adorable little tin that's perfect to pop into your handbag. Maskcara Beauty also has other great products to go along with this one so check out their whole line; the owner Cara also has an awesome blog that you can read here.

Concealer Application
The number one rule for application is 'less is usually more'! Don't get too heavy with it, it's always easier to build up the product then take it away. Apply concealer only in the spots where you actually need it, don't slather it on all over or you can risk looking mask-like.

without concealer  /  with concealer
Setting Concealer
Setting your concealer with powder is super important if you want it to last throughout the day. Finding a good face powder to set spot concealing with isn't too tricky, but under-eye setting powders can be finicky. You need something that is light weight, won't crease and will brighten underneath the eyes. My personal favorites are the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders. They have been staples in my kit since they came out, and they play a huge role in keeping my under eye concealer looking perfect. My favorite shades for this purpose are 'Ethereal' and 'Diffused', and I also love their Strobing Powder in 'Incandescent' for a more glowy look. This shade also comes in their 3 color palette (one of my favorite products EVER). I also enjoy the Laura Mercier translucent and secret brightening powder and the Ben Nye powders are a good cost-effective option. Again, I like to use a slightly damp sponge to apply my setting powder; usually the same one that I have just applied my foundation and concealer with. I do not employ, nor would I recommend the 'baking' method where you pack on a ton of powder, I simply press a little bit of it into the natural crease under my eye and the slight dampness of the sponge really helps melt the powder into my skin.

Fail-Proof Concealers
* Maybelline Fit Me: Smooth & creamy, great for undereyes and light spot concealing. 
* Maybelline Coverstick: Great for quick touch-ups, this thicker consistency covers well and resists creasing.

Full Coverage
* Kryolan Dermacolor: Intense coverage and insanely long wear-time makes this concealer a must have! Just use a little bit at a time for flawless skin.
* Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer: This little pot can be used as foundation or concealer and can be mixed with moisturizers and primers to create a custom level of coverage. It is silky smooth and has a perfected dreamy finish on the skin.
* Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage: Great for spot concealing, this product has great coverage and a stiff consistency that wears well all day.

* Benefit Stay Don't Stray: An eyeshadow primer and concealer in one, this super long-wearing and lightweight formula color corrects and is the perfect base for any other concealer.
* Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer: Super smooth and velvety finish with a great color range and minimal creasing.
* Mac Pro Longwear: Slightly sticky as it dries, this is water resistant and my personal go-to concealer. It comes in a great shade range and can be easily sheered down or built up for customized coverage.
* Givenchy Mister Light Correcting Pen: Super smooth and hydrating, this is the most 'natural looking' concealer and is great for mature skin. I have a review on it here.

* Maskcara Beauty 3D Foundation: Meant to be used for highlighting and sculpting the face, they really do brighten! 

Spot Concealing
* Kryolan Dermacolor: Intense coverage and insanely long wear-time makes this concealer a must have! Just use a little bit at a time for flawless skin.
* Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage: Great for spot concealing, this product has great coverage and a stiff consistency that wears well all day.

* Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer: Super smooth and velvety finish with a great color range and minimal creasing.
* Mac Pro-Longwear: Slightly sticky as it dries, this is water resistant and my personal go-to concealer. It comes in a great shade range and can be easily sheered down or built up for customized coverage.
* Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer: This little pot can be used as foundation or concealer and can be mixed with moisturizers and primers to create a custom level of coverage. It is silky smooth and has a perfected dreamy finish on the skin.

What are you must-have concealers?